Connecticut Home Inspection Blog

Flooding and Well Water

2011-04-05T17:12:00.000-04:00

Total coliform bacteria and E. coli bacteria are used as indicators of bacteriological contamination. The presence of E. coli bacteria indicates that the source of contamination has a fecal origin and there may be more harmful organisms present. If bacteriological contamination is present in the water supply after these storm events, you are encouraged to use bottled water for drinking, cooking, and other uses that may result in direct or indirect ingestion. Boiling the water rapidly for a minimum of one minute can also effectively disinfect water. Persons bathing or washing with water that has been contaminated with fecal matter may also experience an increased risk to health. Therefore, do not use the water for any domestic use until it has been deemed potable for human consumption.

Keep in mind that flood waters entering a well can change the quality of the water and introduce sediment, organic matter and contamination that could overwhelm a treatment system and render it ineffective as a safeguard to bacterial contamination.

In addition to the wells themselves, buried water storage tanks or other water system components can also be vulnerable to contamination. Seek the advice of a professional well driller, water treatment specialist or your local health department if you are not confident about your private water system's integrity.

Typically after floodwaters have receded, wells and storage tanks that have been impacted should be thoroughly flushed, disinfected and tested to ensure that the water is of safe, sanitary quality.

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Ice Dams

2011-03-24T20:25:00.002-04:00

An ice dam is a ridge of ice that forms at the edge of a roof and prevents melting snow from draining. As water backs up behind the dam, it can leak through the roof and cause damage to walls, ceilings, insulation and other areas.

How do ice dams form?

Ice dams are formed by an interaction between snow cover, outside temperatures, and heat lost through the roof. Specifically, there must be snow on the roof, warm portions of the upper roof (warmer than 32° F), and cold portions of the lower roof (at freezing or below). Melted snow from the warmer areas will refreeze when it flows down to the colder portions, forming an ice dam.

Although the primary contributor to snow melting is heat loss from the building's interior, solar radiation can also provide sufficient heat to melt snow on a roof. For example, in southern Canada, enough sunlight can be transmitted through 6 inches (150 mm) of snow cover on a clear and sunny day to cause melting at the roof's surface even when the outside temperature is 14° F (-10° C), with an attic temperature of 23° F
(-5° C).

Gutters do not cause ice dams to form, contrary to popular belief. Gutters do, however, help concentrate ice from the dam in a vulnerable area, where parts of the house can peel away under the weight of the ice and come crashing to the ground.

Ice dams are problematic because they force water to leak from the roof into the building envelope. This may lead to:

rotted roof decking, exterior and interior walls, and framing;
respiratory illnesses (allergies, asthma, etc.) caused by mold growth;
reduced effectiveness of insulation. Wet insulation doesn't work well, and chronically wet insulation will not decompress even when it dries. Without working insulation, even more heat will escape to the roof where more snow will melt, causing more ice dams which, in turn, will lead to leaks;
peeling paint. Water from the leak will infiltrate wall cavities and cause paint to peel and blister. This may happen long after the ice dam has melted and thus not appear directly related to the ice dam.

Avoiding Ice Dams

Keep the entire roof cold. This can be accomplished by implementing the following measures:　
Install a metal roof. Ice formations may occur on metal roofs, but the de-sign of the roof will not allow the melting water to penetrate the roof's surface. Also, snow and ice are more likely to slide off of a smooth, metal surface than asphalt shingles.
Seal all air leaks in the attic floor, such as those surrounding wire and plumbing penetrations, attic hatches, and ceiling light fixtures leading to the attic from the living space below.
Increase the thickness of insulation on the attic floor, ductwork, and chimneys that pass through the attic.
Move or elevate exhaust systems that terminate just above the roof, where they are likely to melt snow.
A minimum of 3" air space is recommended between the top of insulation and roof sheathing in sloped ceilings.
Remove snow from the roof. This can be accomplished safely using a roof rake from the ground. Be careful not to harm roof-ing materials or to dislodge dangerous icicles.
Create channels in the ice by hosing it with warm water. Because this process intentionally adds water to the roof, this should be done only in emergencies where a great deal of water is already flowing through the roof, and when temperatures are warm enough that the hose water can drain before it freezes.

Prevention and Removal Methods to Avoid

electric heat cables. These rarely work, they require effort to install, they use electricity, and they can make shingles brittle.
manual removal of the ice dam using shovels, hammers, ice picks, rakes, or whatever destructive items can be found in the shed. The roof can be easily damaged by these efforts, as can the homeowner, when they slip off of the icy roof.

In summary, ice dams are caused by inadequate attic air sealing and insulation, but homeowners can take certain preventative measures to ensure that they are rare.

Heating Flues

2011-03-24T20:17:00.000-04:00

The heating flue is a pipe connected to your hot water heater, furnace or boiler that exhausts carbon monoxide to the exterior of the home. The fumes produced by combustion need to go outside or a dangerous condition exists.

The pictures below show flues that are not properly connected to the chimney of the home. Openings are present where gas can leak out into the house. A reading was taken with a carbon monoxide detector - levels were indeed elevated in the basement and the occupants of the home were in danger of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Check the flue pipe connections on your heating system, or better yet have your oil or gas contractor do it during a tune-up and cleaning. They can be easily fixed but can be fatal if not maintained and checked.

Electric Heat

2011-03-24T20:11:00.003-04:00

Electrically heated homes may experience a higher level of indoor humidity because of a lack of a chimney, and therefore, have lower rates of air exchange. Also, since the heat is only dispersed primarily through natural convection it's dispersal can be uneven. The uneven heating through an electric heater can cause cool spots to occur, possibly dropping temperatures to below dew point at some areas, creating condensation.

Make sure your dryer and bathroom fans vent to the outside, that you cover your pots with lids when cooking, and take shorter showers as needed. Eliminate any sources of moisture in the basement and crawl space. In more air-tight houses you may need to partially open a window at times, or add a dehumidifier. Placement of fans or adding a ventilation system to allow forced convection can speed heat flow and help equalize heat in the adjoining rooms, helping to prevent cold spots and condensation from occurring.

When purchasing a home with electric heat check the rooms for any signs of mold and mildew. A likely spot for mold growth is the attic.

Your Home Energy Audit

2011-03-24T20:10:00.000-04:00

Scheduling a home energy audit makes great sense. You'll get a detailed report from an expert showing you ways to save money and make your home more energy efficient. Many times you can get the audit for little or no cost - local utility companies sometimes offer free or low cost programs to customers (Connecticut CL&P customers can click on http://www.cl-p.com/home/saveenergy/rebates/homeenergysolutions.aspx). Energy-conservation contractors can provide free or low cost evaluations and also provide the needed services to upgrade the home (one example is http://www.drenergysaver.com). Some home inspectors offer energy audits, but normally for a higher fee and without some of the evaluations listed below. To be effective the audit has to be as comprehensive as possible and must be performed by a professional with the proper training.

Here are some items that need to be a part of any energy audit of your home:

•· Does my audit include a blower door test? Standard for one of the most important aspects of an energy audit, used to check air leakage throughout the home. A must-have for homeowners looking to lower energy bills. Don't skip this.

•· Infrared scanning? IR cameras are used to check temperature variations in the house. The gold standard for measuring how effectively your insulation is working.

•· Duct evaluation? A must if your home uses forced hot or cold air for heating and cooling. Sealing leaky ducts is an easy way to save money.

•· Heating and cooling systems evaluation? Older systems waste energy. Improperly installed systems waste energy and could be a safety hazard.

•· Smoke tools? Like the blower door test, also used to detect air leakage in the home.

When performed by trained energy conservation professionals the home energy audit offers ways to save money and make your home more comfortable.

Aluminum Siding Inspections

2011-03-24T20:04:00.000-04:00

Aluminum siding is generally in decline as an exterior cladding material because vinyl siding and other materials have become more popular choices. However, it is still among the most common forms of siding found today. It provided many advantages over other materials when it was introduced in the 1940s. It was installed on many affordable homes through the 1970s. Inspectors will encounter aluminum siding on many home exteriors and can benefit from knowing more about this common form of exterior cladding. Homeowners may be interested in the drawbacks of this material, as well as some of the advantages it still provides in certain situations today.

Aluminum siding is made from aluminum coil stock, which is chemically coated to protect the metal and then painted for further protection, as well as aesthetics. After coating, the siding is baked for durability, with enamel often added to create desired textures.

One of the earliest architectural uses of aluminum came in the 1920s when it was used to produce ornamental spandrel panels for the Chrysler Building and the Empire State Building in New York City. By the 1940s, aluminum siding was being produced for use on residential structures, and quickly became popular due to the advantages it provided over other materials in use at the time. A Pennsylvania subdivision built in 1947 was reportedly the first housing project to use solely aluminum siding.

Its popularity remained fairly steady until the 1970s, during the energy crisis. Aluminum siding requires a great deal of energy for production, as well as consumption of a significant amount of raw materials. These factors largely contributed to its decline in use as other forms of exterior cladding became more popular.

Although aluminum siding is seeing less use these days, it possesses some attributes that may be seen as advantageous over other materials in certain situations. There are also some areas where aluminum siding doesn't stack up quite as well as other options. Here are some pros and cons to consider with aluminum siding.

Advantages
•Aluminum siding is very lightweight.

•It is fairly durable. When properly maintained, it can last from 40 years to the life of the structure.

•It accepts the application of paint well and can be painted any desired color.

•Aluminum siding does not rust.

•It is fireproof. In case of fire, it will not burn or melt like other claddings.

•It is waterproof. When properly installed, it provides excellent water-resistant capabilities for exterior walls.

•Since aluminum siding contains no organic material, it will not rot or serve as a source of food for termites.

•An enamel coating baked onto the surface of the siding can mimic the look of other materials, such as wood grain, which gives the siding a more traditional look.

•Aluminum siding is recyclable.

Disadvantages

•Aluminum siding can dent easily, and the damaged area may be difficult to repair or replace. Many siding manufacturers offer a thin backing board of insulation that fits behind each panel. This backing can help protect against dents.

•Although the siding takes the application of paint well, it may need to be repainted every five to 10 years. If any oxidization has occurred, it must be removed before new paint is applied, which can make for a labor-intensive process. In general, repainting aluminum siding requires preparation similar to repainting a car.

•Scratches in the siding will usually be immediately noticeable and unsightly because they can reveal the metal surface below the paint.

•Although aluminum will not rust because it contains no iron, as opposed to steel siding, it can corrode. It can also be stained by the rust on adjacent materials.

•The sound of rain and hail striking it can be loud enough that some people avoid using it for this reason alone.

•Aluminum siding has gone out of style aesthetically, and is generally considered less desirable than both more traditional and newer, modern forms of exterior cladding.

•The production of aluminum siding requires a large amount of energy and raw materials.

Inspection Tips

Here are some things that inspectors can keep in mind while examining exterior walls clad in aluminum siding:

•Since metal siding can conduct electricity, some jurisdictions require that the siding be grounded as a safety measure. Inspectors can check with the local authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) to find out if grounding is a requirement.

•Aluminum siding can be distinguished from vinyl siding by visual inspection. Any dents in the siding are a clue that it is aluminum, as opposed to vinyl, which may show cracks or breaks.

•Lightly tapping on the siding can also help determine what the material is. Aluminum has a slightly hollow and metallic sound when struck.

•Distinguishing between aluminum and steel siding can be more difficult and may require the use of a magnet, which will interact with steel but not aluminum. Rust spots are another sign that the siding is steel.

•Properly installed aluminum siding should not be in contact with the ground. The AHJ can be consulted for the minimum required clearance.

•If the siding has been installed in contact with the ground or below ground level, outward bulging at the bottom can be an indication that the building sills and/or lower walls have been damaged by rot or pests.

Aluminum siding was very popular in the latter part of the 20th century and is still installed on many homes across the United States today.

Barbeque Safety

2011-03-24T18:54:00.000-04:00

With barbeque season coming homeowners should heed the following safety precautions in order to keep their families and property safe.

•Propane grills present an enormous fire hazard, as the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is aware of more than 500 fires that result annually from their misuse or malfunction. The following precautions are recommended specifically when using propane grills:

◦Store propane tanks outdoors and never near the grill or any other heat source. In addition, never store or transport them in your car's trunk.

◦Make sure to completely turn off the gas after you have finished, or when you are changing the tank. Even a small gas leak can cause a deadly explosion.

◦Check for damage to a tank before refilling it, and only buy propane from reputable suppliers.

◦Never use a propane barbecue grill on a terrace, balcony or roof, as this is dangerous and illegal.

◦No more than two 20-pound propane tanks are allowed on the property of a one- or two-family home.

◦To inspect for a leak, spray a soapy solution over the connections and watch for bubbles. If you see evidence of a leak, reconnect the components and try again. If bubbles persist, replace the leaking parts before using the grill.

◦Make sure connections are secure before turning on the gas, especially if the grill hasn't been used in months. The most dangerous time to use a propane grill is at the beginning of the barbeque season.

◦Ignite a propane grill with the lid open, not closed. Propane can accumulate beneath a closed lid and explode.

◦When finished, turn off the gas first, and then the controls. This way, residual gas in the pipe will be used up.

•Charcoal grills pose a serious poisoning threat due to the venting of carbon monoxide (CO). The CPSC estimates that 20 people die annually from accidentally ingesting CO from charcoal grills. These grills can also be a potential fire hazard. Follow these precautions when using charcoal grills:

◦Never use a charcoal grill indoors, even if the area is ventilated. CO is colorless and odorless, and you will not know you are in danger until it is too late.

◦Use only barbeque starter fluid to start the grill, and don't add the fluid to an open flame. It is possible for the flame to follow the fluid's path back to the container as you're holding it.

◦Let the fluid soak into the coals for a minute before igniting them to allow explosive vapors to dissipate.

◦Charcoal grills are permitted on terraces and balconies only if there is at least 10 feet of clearance from the building, and a water source immediately nearby, such as a hose (or 4 gallons of water).

◦Be careful not to spill any fluid on yourself, and stand back when igniting the grill. Keep the charcoal lighter fluid container at a safe distance from the grill.

◦When cleaning the grill, dispose of the ashes in a metal container with a tight lid, and add water. Do not remove the ashes until they have fully cooled.

◦Fill the base of the grill with charcoal to a depth of no more than 2 inches.

•Electric grills are probably safer than propane and charcoal grills, but safety precautions need to be used with them as well. Follow these tips when using electric grills:

◦Do not use lighter fluid or any other combustible materials.

◦When using an extension cord, make sure it is rated for the amperage required by the grill. The cord should be unplugged when not in use, and out of a busy foot path to prevent tripping.

◦As always, follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Safety Recommendations for General Grill Use

•Always make sure that the grill is used in a safe place, where kids and pets won't touch or bump into it. Keep in mind that the grill will still be hot after you finish cooking, and anyone coming into contact with it could be burned.

•If you use a grill lighter, make sure you don't leave it lying around where children can reach it. They will quickly learn how to use it.

•Never leave the grill unattended, as this is generally when accidents happen.

•Keep a fire extinguisher or garden hose nearby.

•Ensure that the grill is completely cooled before moving it or placing it back in storage.

•Ensure that the grill is only used on a flat surface that cannot burn, and well away from any shed, trees or shrubs.

•Clean out the grease and other debris in the grill periodically. Be sure to look for rust or other signs of deterioration.

•Don't wear loose clothing that might catch fire while you're cooking.

•Use long-handled barbecue tools and flame-resistant oven mitts.

•Keep alcoholic beverages away from the grill; they are flammable!

In summary, homeowners should exercise caution when using any kind of grill, as they can harm life and property in numerous ways.

Septic Systems

2008-12-10T14:43:00.003-05:00

Septic Systems

Did you know that the septic system is probably the most costly component of a home? It can cost from $5000 to $50000 to repair. Also, your septic system can impact properties other than your own, possibly contaminating your neighbors' well water. It pays to understand how the system works and to have it examined before purchasing a home.

A septic tank is a big underground container, usually about 9 feet long and 6 feet high that is connected to a house's sewer line. Some are built with a 1,000 gallon capacity but the size of the tank is dictated by the number of bedrooms in the home. Septic tanks may be rectangular or cylindrical and can be made of different materials, usually concrete or fiberglass.

Waste water from the house (bathrooms, sinks, etc.) flows into the tank where the solids separate from the liquid. Light solids, such as soap suds and fat, float to the top and form the scum layer. The scum remains on top and slowly thickens until the tank is cleaned. Liquid waste flows into the drain or leach field, while the heavy solids sink to the bottom of the tank where they are slowly decomposed by bacteria. Some non-decomposed solids remain, forming the sludge layer that will have to be pumped out. Ask your septic contractor for advice on pumping - usually every two or three years will keep the system in good order.

Septic tanks may have one or more chambers or compartments. Multi-compartment tanks usually do the best job of settling the solids and could be mandated in some towns and cities for new homes. "T"'s or baffles at a tank's inlet pipe retard the incoming waste and minimize disturbance of the settled sludge. A "T" or baffle at the outlet keeps the solids or scum in the tank. All tanks need an accessible cover for checking the condition of the baffles and for pumping any compartments (be wary - I've seen homeowners pave over or install decks and patios on top of the access covers inadvertently - a sure sign that the system is not being maintained properly).

Septic systems have a design life like any other system in the home. Your septic contractor can help estimate how old your system is. Septic failure usually comes in one of two ways: water appears on top of the leach fields (they're full beyond capacity) or water and waste backs out of the tank, through the waste pipe, back into the house.

If you are buying a home with a septic tank you need to have it inspected by a professional septic contractor. To properly inspect the system, the contractor will need to dig holes to access the underground parts of the system. This will include inspecting the tank, as well as the leach field. I don't recommend the "dye test" - you'll actually want an expert to open it up and inspect it visually rather than flushing dye down the toilet. It can't be properly evaluated any other way. Repairing or replacing the system is a major expense, best to have it thoroughly inspected before purchasing the home.

It makes good sense to have the tank pumped during or after evaluation, but do not have it or let it be pumped before it is inspected. A professional septic contractor can perform both the inspection and pump the tank at the same time, killing two birds with one stone and assuring that you begin with an empty tank and a system that has been inspected. Often, you can negotiate with the seller to have them pay for the pumping.

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Drinking Water

2008-12-04T21:46:00.003-05:00

Water Quality
Drinking Water
The United States has one of the safest water supplies in the world. However, national statistics don't tell you specifically about the quality and safety of the water coming out of your tap. That's because drinking water quality varies from place to place, depending on the condition of the source water from which it is drawn and the treatment it receives. Now you have a new way to find information about your drinking water, if it comes from a public water supplier (EPA doesn't regulate private wells, but recommends that well owners have their water tested annually). Starting in 1999, every community water supplier must provide an annual report (sometimes called a consumer confidence report) to its customers. The report provides information on your local drinking water quality, including the water's source, the contaminants found in the water, and how consumers can get involved in protecting drinking water. You may want more information, or have more questions. One place you can go is to your water supplier, who is best equipped to answer questions about your specific water supply.
What contaminants may be found in drinking water? There is no such thing as naturally pure water. In nature, all water contains some impurities. As water flows in streams, sits in lakes, and filters through layers of soil and rock in the ground, it dissolves or absorbs the substances that it touches. Some of these substances are harmless. In fact, some people prefer mineral water precisely because minerals give it an appealing taste. However, at certain levels, minerals, just like man-made chemicals, are considered contaminants that can make water unpalatable or even unsafe. Some contaminants come from erosion of natural rock formations. Other contaminants are substances discharged from factories, applied to farmlands, or used by consumers in their homes and yards. Sources of contaminants might be in your neighborhood or might be many miles away. Your local water quality report tells which contaminants are in your drinking water, the levels at which they were found, and the actual or likely source of each contaminant. Some ground water systems hav established wellhead protection programs to prevent substances from contaminating their wells. Similarly, some surface water systems protect the watershed around their reservoir to prevent contamination. Right now, states and water suppliers are working systematically to assess every source of drinking water and to identify potential sources of contaminants. This process will help communities to protect their drinking water supplies from contamination.
Where does drinking water come from? A clean, constant supply of drinking water is essential to every community. People in large cities frequently drink water that comes from surface water sources, such as lakes, rivers, and reservoirs. Sometimes these sources are close to the community. Other times, drinking water suppliers get their water from sources many miles away. In either case, when you think about where your drinking water comes from, it's important to consider not just the part of the river or lake that you can see, but the entire watershed. The watershed is the land area over which water flows into the river, lake, or reservoir. In rural areas, people are more likely to drink ground water that was pumped from a well. These wells tap into aquifers, the natural reservoirs under the earth's surface, that may be only a few miles wide, or may span the borders of many states. As with surface water, it is important to remember that activities many miles away from you may affect the quality of ground water. Your annual drinking water quality report will tell you where your water supplier gets your water.
How is drinking water treated? When a water supplier takes untreated water from a river or reservoir, the water often contains dirt and tiny pieces of leaves and other organic matter, as well as trace amounts of certain contaminants. When it gets to the treatment plant, water suppliers often add chemicals called coagulants to the water. These act on the water as it flows very slowly through tanks so that the dirt and other contaminants form clumps that settle to the bottom. Usually, this water then flows through a filter for removal of the smallest contaminants like viruses and Giardia. Most ground water is naturally filtered as it passes through layers of the earth into underground reservoirs known as aquifers. Water that suppliers pump from wells generally contains less organic material than surface water and may not need to go through any or all of the treatments described in the previous paragraph. The quality of the water will depend on local conditions. The most common drinking water treatment, considered by many to be one of the most important scientific advances of the 20th century, is disinfection. Most water suppliers add chlorine or another disinfectant to kill bacteria and other germs. Water suppliers use other treatments as needed, according to the quality of their source water. For example, systems whose water is contaminated with organic chemicals can treat their water with activated carbon, which adsorbs or attracts the chemicals dissolved in the water.
What if I have special health needs? People who have HIV/AIDS, are undergoing chemotherapy, take steroids, or for another reason have a weakened immune system may be more susceptible to microbial contaminants, including Cryptosporidium, in drinking water. If you or someone you know fall into one of these categories, talk to your health care provider to find out if you need to take special precautions, such as boiling your water. Young children are particularly susceptible to the effects of high levels of certain contaminants, including nitrate and lead. To avoid exposure to lead, use water from the cold tap for making baby formula, drinking, and cooking, and let the water run for a minute or more if the water hasn't been turned on for six or more hours. If your water supplier alerts you that your water does not meet EPA's standard for nitrates and you have children less than six months old, consult your health care provider. You may want to find an alternate source of water that contains lower levels of nitrates for your child.
What are the health effects of contaminants in drinking water? EPA has set standards for more than 80 contaminants that may occur in drinking water and pose a risk to human health. EPA sets these standards to protect the health of everybody, including vulnerable groups like children. The contaminants fall into two groups according to the health effects that they cause. Your local water supplier will alert you through the local media, direct mail, or other means if there is a potential acute or chronic health effect from compounds in the drinking water. You may want to contact them for additional information specific to your area. Acute effects occur within hours or days of the time that a person consumes a contaminant. People can suffer acute health effects from almost any contaminant if they are exposed to extraordinarily high levels (as in the case of a spill). In drinking water,microbes, such as bacteria and viruses, are the contaminants with the greatest chance of reaching levels high enough to cause acute health effects. Most people's bodies can fight off these microbial contaminants the way they fight off germs, and these acute contaminants typically don't have permanent effects. Nonetheless, when high enough levels occur, they can make people ill, and can be dangerous or deadly for a person whose immune system is already weak due to HIV/AIDS, chemotherapy, steroid use, or another reason. Chronic effects occur after people consume a contaminant at levels over EPA's safety standards for many years. The drinking water contaminants that can have chronic effects are chemicals (such as disinfection by-products, solvents, and pesticides), radionuclides (such as radium), and minerals (such as arsenic). Examples of these chronic effects include cancer, liver or kidney problems,or reproductive difficulties.
Who is responsible for drinking water quality? The Safe Drinking Water Act gives the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) the responsibility for setting national drinking water standards that protect the health of the 250 million people who get their water from public water systems. Other people get their water from private wells which are not subject to federal regulations. Since 1974, EPA has set national standards for over 80 contaminants that may occur in drinking water. While EPA and state governments set and enforce standards, local governments and private water suppliers have direct responsibility for the quality of the water that flows to your tap. Water systems test and treat their water, maintain the distribution systems that deliver water to consumers, and report on their water quality to the state. States and EPA provide technical assistance to water suppliers and can take legal action against systems that fail to provide water that meets state and EPA standards.
What is a violation of a drinking water standard? Drinking water suppliers are required to monitor and test their water many times, for many things, before sending it to consumers. These tests determine whether and how the water needs to be treated, as well as the effectiveness of the treatment process. If a water system consistently sends to consumers water that contains a contaminant at a level higher than EPA or state health standards or if the system fails to monitor for a contaminant, the system is violating regulations, and is subject to fines and other penalties. When a water system violates a drinking water regulation, it must notify the people who drink its water about the violation, what it means, and how they should respond. In cases where the water presents an immediate health threat, such as when people need to boil water before drinking it, the system must use television, radio, and newspapers to get the word out as quickly as possible. Other notices may be sent by mail, or delivered with the water bill. Each water suppliers' annual water quality report must include a summary of all the violations that occurred during the previous year. For more information call the Safe Drinking Water Hotline at 1-800-426-4791.

How can I help protect drinking water? Using the new information that is now available about drinking water, citizens can both be aware of the challenges of keeping drinking water safe and take an active role in protecting drinking water. There are lots of ways that individuals can get involved. Some people will help clean up the watershed that is the source of their community's water. Other people might get involved in wellhead protection activities to prevent the contamination of the ground water source that provides water to their community. These people will be able to make use of the information that states and water systems are gathering as they assess their sources of water. Other people will want to attend public meetings to ensure that the community's need for safe drinking water is considered in making decisions about land use. You may wish to participate as your state and water system make funding decisions. And all consumers can do their part to conserve water and to dispose properly of household chemicals.

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Infrared Thermography

2008-12-04T15:46:00.000-05:00

The Latest Tool for Home Inspectors – Infrared Cameras

With the economy hitting new lows and gas and oil prices fluctuating many home owners are taking a hard look at the energy efficiency and overall “health” of their homes. Infrared cameras can be a valuable tool to help keep heating and cooling costs down and in keeping the home in good condition.

An infrared camera measures thermal energy emitted from building materials. Infrared cameras allow us to “see” things with the camera that are invisible to the naked eye. IR cameras take a picture of heat radiation and provide precise temperature measurement of objects.

A Certified Infrared Thermographer can use the camera in many ways to perform an energy audit for your home or business:

IR cameras can help pinpoint loose or missing insulation in the building envelope that cannot be seen behind walls and ceilings. Missing insulation means heat loss, you’ll pay more to heat (and cool) your house. Fixing or adding insulation where needed saves money and increases comfort.

Infrared thermography is useful in finding plumbing problems including moisture hidden behind floors, ceilings, and walls. The camera can spot concealed leaks before they become a major problem, allowing the home owner to take corrective action. Source of water penetration can be located for quick repair.

IR technology can “see” air penetration into (or out of) a home or building under the right conditions. Ever sit in a room on a cold day and get a chill or find it hard to keep an area of the house warm in winter? A scan with this camera can pinpoint the problem area (doors, windows, walls, vents, etc.), allowing for repair.

Boilers can develop a “hot spot” before failing or leaking, easily detected with infrared technology. Useful for preventative maintenance.

Exterior cooling compressors can be scanned to check for over-heating and inefficiency.

Electrical panels are scanned to locate breakers or other components with “hot spots”, allowing for repair before they become a safety hazard.

Infrared technology can help you pinpoint problems not seen under a normal visual inspection. By taking corrective action based on the thermal or IR scan you can save money and keep your home in good shape, repairing small problems before they become large problems.

Infrared Photo Shows Missing Attic Insulation (Blue Area)

Infrared Photo Shows Possible Over-Heating of Light Dimmer - Further Investigation Shows Switch Over-Loaded, Fire Hazard

Tom Schlotter
Allied Home Inspections
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Attic and Roof Ventilation

2005-06-08T22:27:00.000-04:00

A properly balanced attic ventilation system is essential for your home. Most common forms of venting are gable vents (openings in the gable or short end of the attic wall), ridge vents (opening at the roof peak) and soffit vents (openings at the soffits or the lowest area of the roof).

A good system must have a way for the air to get in (usually the soffit vent), and get out (usually the ridge vent). A chimney effect helps the air circulate through the attic, cool air in through the soffits and hot air out the top ridge. Wind blowing across the roof peak outside creates negative pressure, helping the chimney effect and air circulation.

So what does attic and roof ventilation do?

Helps prevent ice dams in the winter. An ice dam is a ridge of ice that forms at the edge of a roof and prevents melting snow (water) from draining off the roof. The water that backs up behind the dam can leak into a home and cause damage to walls, ceilings, insulation, and other areas. The heat inside the attic causes the top part of the roof to be warmer than the lower edge - snow melts at the peak, drips down the roof and ices up at the bottom edge. Ventilation in the attic keeps the temperature at the top and bottom levels more consistent and reduces the formation of ice (insulation helps also).
Reduces condensation and moisture in the attic and the home. Prevents wood rot, peeling paint, mold and mildew.
Prevents premature aging and failure of roof shingles and decking. High temps bake the roofing materials from the attic side, ventilation helps the attic stay cooler. Most roofing manufacturer's warranties require proper roof ventilation to ensure that the materials perform as specified. If you want that new 30 year roof to actually last 30 years the attic (including the roof decking and the underside of the shingles) needs ventilation.
Helps keep the entire home cooler in warm weather.

Some guidelines regarding attic and roof ventilation:

There should be vents at the bottom (soffits) and the top (ridge) of the roof for proper airflow, but anything is better than nothing.
As a rule you want the air temp of the attic to be about the same as the outdoors. If there is a wide difference you need to increase ventilation.
Don't block vents. Covering your attic gable vents in winter doesn't keep your house warmer (increase the insulation in the floor of the attic to achieve this). Don't let the attic floor insulation block the soffit vents at the lower roof edge.
Soffit and ridge vents are considered a balanced system. Ask a ventilation contractor for advice if your attic also has gable vents - the gable vents may negate the airflow from the soffits and ridge and may need correction.
Consider adding an attic fan. Many cost below $100, are easy to install, and run on a thermostat that kicks in when attic temperatures get too high.
Make the ventilation uniform throughout the attic, with no dead spaces. The ridge and soffit vents should be continuous if possible. If using gable vents bigger is better.

Insulation

2005-06-01T11:06:00.000-04:00

Insulation is an important (and often overlooked) component of your home. Properly installed and sized insulation will help keep your home cool in summer, warm in winter, reduce drafts and keep the noise level down between the living space and outdoors.

The ability of insulation to slow the transfer of heat is measured in "R" values. The higher the "R" value, the better the insulation's ability to resist heat flow thru it.

If you plan on keeping your home for more than a few years insulation will pay for itself in energy savings by decreasing heating and cooling bills. Be sure to have proper insulation in the following areas:

Attic - Department of Energy recommends R-38 for most of the counrty. Install insulation in the attic floor as needed to separate the living space below from the attic above. Insulation is not normally installed in gable walls or touching the roof decking in this area of the country. Don't forget to insulate over the attic hatch or pull-down stairway.
Pipes - insulate water supply pipes carrying hot water for energy savings. It is especially important to insulate all supply pipes in unheated areas such as basements and crawlspaces to prevent freezing (the pipes will burst) and condensation.
Ducts - insulate heating and cooling ducts for energy savings. Insulation here will also prevent condensation, which will help to prevent mold and mildew in the home.
Walls - proper insulation here will keep heating and cooling bills down, make the home quieter, and prevent drafts.
Hot Water Heater - uses less energy when insulated, saves money. Be sure to leave openings for the controls, don't place the insulation close to any flames on the unit.
Basement - insulate floors above cold spaces, such as unheated basements, crawlspaces and garages. In garages make sure there is a fire barrier covering the insulation.

A prime component of your insulation system is the vapor barrier. Vapor barriers keep moisture from moving from one space to another. For example, a vapor barrier should be installed in a dirt crawlspace to keep moisture from rising up through the dirt and entering the living space above. Make sure vapor barriers are installed correctly to reduce moisture, mold, and mildew in the home.

Last but not least, make sure there are no gaps in the insulation where air and moisture can penetrate. Air movement negates the purpose of insulation - when it is improperly installed insulation can be useless. Make sure fiberglass batts in the attic cover the flooring with no gaps between. Sections of duct and pipe insulation should be joined and secured with tape. Wall insulation should be correctly installed and secured to prevent settling where gaps can occur.

Contact an insulation professional for advice before getting started. For more information visit http://www.energy.gov/.

Well water treatment systems and backwash discharge

2005-05-25T08:37:00.000-04:00

Many home owners who use a well to get their water opt to have a water treatment system installed. The treatment system can help with many problems associated with drinking water - hardness, bacteria, odor, high levels of iron, etc. In some cases a backwash tube will be installed so the components can be flushed periodically and kept in good working order.

Pay special attention to the location where the backwash or drain discharges to - most towns do not want it to empty into the septic tank, and your septic contractor will advise against it. Salts and other minerals can flow from the treatment tanks inside your home into your septic system, causing premature erosion of the tank. Also, your septic system relies on bacteria to function correctly. Flushing salts and minerals from the treatment system into the septic system will hamper the bacteria from eating the solids in the septic tank, causing the system to function improperly.

In many cases it is impossible to see exactly where the water treatment discharge tube leads to - the tube will exit the house through a foundation wall and be buried underground at the exterior. Ask your septic contractor to check it out during a septic inspection. Also, check with the company who installed the treatment system for the location of the drain discharge. The installation company will usually leave a sticker with their name and phone number on the treament tanks or filters. If you are in doubt as to where the discharge leads to you can always have a new drain laid to an appropriate area (not the septic system) by your septic contractor or a well water treatment firm.